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Le réveil sonne à 3h30. Nous ne sommes pas les seuls du dortoir à nous lever aux aurores, un autre couple se prépare aussi. Nous rangeons nos affaires et rejoignons la salle à manger. Le petit dej est prêt depuis la veille au soir. Tout à coup, coupure d’électricité, comme plusieurs fois la veille. Personne n’est là pour réarmer le disjoncteur. Nous déjeunons à la frontale : pain, corn flakes, jus et boisson chaude.
Nous partons avec le minimum, Sophie ayant laissé son sac à dos dans le casier, que nous récupèrerons au retour.
4h20, nous démarrons la rando, dans le noir complet, à la frontale.
Quelques autres randonneurs partent en même temps que nous. La première partie, longue de 3,2 km, assez facile, nous emmène jusqu’au campement Torres. Sur les cartes, ils annoncent 1h30 pour cette section, nous la faisons en 50 min.
Il reste 800m d’une montée difficile pour arriver au Mirador Base de las Torres. Les premières lueurs de l’aube apparaissent dans notre dos. Ça grimpe dur. La dernière partie est un important pierrier.
Il commence à faire jour et nous éteignons nos frontales. Les Torres, les célèbres tours du massif Paine se dévoilent peu à peu. Nous arrivons au sommet à 6h00 précise.
Le lac de glacier est partiellement gelé. Un panneau rappelle qu’il est interdit de s’y baigner ! Le spectacle commence à 6h10. Les lueurs rouges recouvrent petit à petit les 3 tours : Torre Norte (2248 m), Torre Central Norte (2800m), et Torre Sur (2850 m).
Le ciel est incroyablement clair. Nous retrouvons un plus haut sur les rochers Pascal, le français avec qui nous avions discuté la veille. Nous traînons en admirant le paysage et en discutant. À 9h00 le soleil illuminé entièrement les tours et le lacs, et nous réchauffe par la même occasion.
À 9h40, nous commençons la descente. D’abord le pierrier, puis une belle forêt de nothofagus antartica, avec leurs belles petites feuilles très vertes. Nous arrivons au refuge El Chileno à 11h30. Cela nous laisse tout le temps de pousser jusqu’au refuge Los Cuernos, à 16km. Nous demandons au refuge s’il est possible d’annuler le refuge suivant Torre Central. Réponse : impossible. Nous perdrions 240$ US ! Nous nous résignons à suivre notre itinéraire pépère, déçu de ne pas avoir planifié notre rando au plus court, à cause de cartes annonçant des temps de marche fantaisistes.
Nous nous posons dehors pour manger notre picnic, un sandwich ultra sec au poulet. Nous discutons avec un couple de hollandais.
Vers 14h30, nous entamons la descente vers le Refugio Torre Central. La descente est assez rapide, mais arrivé à l’hôtel Torre, il faut pousser plus loin pour arriver au refuge. Il nous faudra faire ce chemin en sens inverse demain.
Le refuge est plus grand et mieux aménagé que le précédent. Un grande baie vitrée dans la salle à manger offre une vue imprenable sur 2 des 3 Torres.
Nous nous installons dans notre dortoir de 6 lits. Le lit (avec les draps) coûte la modique somme de 71 $US, certainement l’un des dortoirs les plus chers au monde.
Nous nous reposons dans nos lits, car le réveil à 3h30 se fait sentir.
Nous dinons à 19h : soupe en entrée, viande (porc ou boeuf) au zest d’orange et crudités, gâteau de semoule ultra bourratif en dessert.
Nous nous douchons et nous ne nous couchons pas trop tard.