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Nous nous levons à 6h30 et prenons le petit dej. Prêt à 7h30, notre tour n’arrive pas. L’hôtel appelle l’agence, ils sont en route. Nous sommes les derniers à être récupéré et nous nous retrouvons au fond du minivan. Nous sommes 8, dont 5 chiliens et un autre français.
Le chauffeur nous présente le programme de la journée et indique que nous aurons à faire beaucoup de route, environ 500km, avec majoritairement de la piste en gravier. Pour que tout le monde soit confortable, nous changerons de place dans le van. Nous traverserons le détroit de Magellan en ferry pour aller sur la grande île de Terre de Feu, et revenir sur le continente en faisant la grande boucle et en retraversant le détroit à Bahía Azul. Une grosse journée en perspective.
Nous roulons jusqu’au port de Punta Arenas et patientons dans le hall jusqu’au départ du ferry à 9h00. Ce gros ferry traverse le détroit de Magellan jusqu’à Porvenir, une petite ville située dans la partie chilienne de la Terre de Feu.
Les 2h30 de traversée sont monotones. Nous nous installons dans la cabine et en profitons pour écrire nos cartes postales car c’est notre dernier jour au Chili et c’est aujourd’hui ou jamais pour les poster. Nous sortons de temps à autre pour regarder le paysage sur le pont. Aucun dauphin à l’horizon.
Nous débarquons en Terre de Feu à 11h30 et roulons dans la ville de Porvenir jusqu’à un petit resto très simple qui propose différents plats du jour à 3000 pesos. Le chauffeur nous donne 1h pour manger et visiter la ville. Il ne faut pas perdre de temps, nous commandons 2 assiettes de lechón (porc) et purée. Nous sommes malheureusement servis les derniers du groupe après 20min d’attente. Les premiers ont fini leur assiette et sont déjà entrain de se balader. Nous mangeons en 20 min et il nous reste que 20 min pour une visite expéditive de la ville. Nous traversons la place centrale, passons devant le petit musée, fermé, l’église, et descendons vers la mer. À peine arrivé à la costanera, la route en bord de mer, notre van nous y attend.
Nous reprenons la route à 13h vers la baie Bahía Inútil, nommée ainsi car elle n’offre aucun endroit propice aux navigateurs pour mouiller l’ancre lorsque les conditions sont mauvaises dans le détroit. 
Nous roulons environ 2h30 jusqu’à l’estancia Clemente, au fond de la baie, qui possède les terrains où la colonie de manchots s’est installé.
Nous arrivons vers 15h30. Après une courte introduction, une guide nous amène découvrir la colonie de manchots royaux. Nous voyons passer au loin un renard.
Ils sont aujourd’hui 62 individus, de l’autre côté d’une petite rivière qui termine dans la baie. C’est le plus grand nombre depuis des semaines, oscillant entre 20 et 80 manchots. Nous avons de la chance.
C’est paraît-il le seul endroit d’Amérique du Sud où il est possible de les observer. Les autres populations se trouvent dans des îles sub-antarctiques (Malouines, Géorgie du Sud, Shetland du Sud, Kerguelen, Crozet).
Le manchot royal est un très proche cousin du célèbre manchot empereur, la star du film La Marche de l’Empereur, que l’on ne rencontre qu’en Antarctique. Haut de 90cm, le manchot royal est bien plus grand que le manchot de Magellan, mesurant lui 70cm. C’est le 2e plus grand manchot après l’empereur.
Nous observons les manchots pendant une heure. Certains manchots se battent à coup d’ailes et se bousculent, d’autres dorment ou gambadent. Des couples semblent faire preuve de tendresse en se câlinant et se donnant de petits coups de bec.
Il y a beaucoup de vent. Les autres touristes ont froid et sont rentrés dans le van après environ 30min. Nous restons tous les 2 à profiter du spectacle.
Nous restons vers 17h. Il reste 5h de route jusqu’à Punta Arenas. Nous demandons à changer de place dans le van car c’est vraiment tape-cul à l’arrière sur les graviers. Mais aucun des chiliens ne veut et nous nius résignons à subir encore de longues heures.
Les paysages ne sont pas très variés : pampa, pampa, et encore pampa.
Nous faisons un arrêt à Cerro Sombrero, une ville pétrolière en déclin depuis les années 80, depuis que la production pétrolière en Terre de Feu a chuté. Les habitants de la ville travaillent aujourd’hui à la maintenance des installations qui produisent encore un peu de gaz. La ville, dynamique auparavant, n’est plus que l’ombre d’elle même : le cinéma et la piscine sont à l’abandon.
Une demi-heure plus tard, nous arrivons au ferry de Bahía Azul, en territoire chilien, par lequel transite l’intégralité des marchandises pour Ushuaia, ville argentine enclavée. La traversée dure 30 min, pendant lesquelles Sophie aura la chance d’apercevoir plusieurs toninas à l’arrière, alors que je ne vois rien d’autre qu’un manchot de Magellan nageant à la surface.
Nous sommes de retour sur le continent. Nous faisons arrêt photo à l’estancia San Gregorio abandonnée, devant laquelle trône 2 épaves de navires, abandonné sur la plage car trop vieux. 
Nous mangeons dans la voiture nos empanadas achetées la veille. Nous pourrons directement rentrer nous coucher en arrivant.
Nous arrivons à Punta Arenas vers 22h.
Nous nous faisons déposer devant la poste centrale à la recherche d’une boîte aux lettres. Des chiliens nous expliquent qu’on ne trouve plus de boîtes aux lettres et qu’il faut se rendre au guichet le lendemain. Il y a bien des boîtes devant mais en mauvais état. Nous rentrons à l’hôtel et confions nos cartes postales à la propriétaire.