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Ce matin, le réveil est difficile. Au petit déjeuner de l’hôtel, un buffet nous est présenté : gâteau, céréales, salade de fruit pomme-poire-kiwi, toast grillé, chocolat chaud, jus de fruit.
Nous partons visiter l’ Iglesia San Francisco, la plus vieille église de la ville, avec des grosses pierres et un plafond à caisson. A l’intérieur, il y a une statue de Saint François d’Assise, qui semble être le protecteur des animaux, avec plein de photos d’animaux de compagnie (chiens chats chevaux), et des petits mots demandant au Saint de protéger leur animal des maladies et prendre soin de lui.
Sur l’avenue principale, fermée à la circulation, il y a de nombreux policiers en armure anti émeute façon CRS et des véhicules blindés : une manif se prépare.
Nous partons visiter la bibliothèque nationale, dans un imposant bâtiment Beaux Arts. Nous jetons un coup d’oeil dans un superbe salon Medina, du nom d’un collectionneur de livres et « bienfaiteur de la bibliothèque nationale », Jose Toribio Medina, tout en boiseries avec meubles anciens.
En faisant l’achat de produit de lentille pour Sylvain, nous traversons le cortège de la manif. L’opticien nous explique que c’est une manif d’étudiants qui réclament la gratuité des universités. Nous lui demandons s’il y a des risques de débordements, il nous dit que oui. Nous nous éloignons.
Pendant la promenade, nous passons devant le Theatre Municipal.
Puis la Plaza de Armas.
A l’Office du Tourisme, nous avons la confirmation que le plus beau musée du pays est fermé pour restauration, le musée d’arts précolombiens.
Puis nous visitons l’ Iglesia Catedral (décoration chargée) en plein office, sur la place des armes (Plaza de Armas). 
Visite des jardins de la Camara de Diputados la chambre des députés.
Nous voyons passer des véhicules de police anti émeute qui foncent avec gyrophare, ça a dû mal partir plus loin.
Nous continuons notre balade avec la Casa Colorada, une maison coloniale qui abrite un musée en restauration. Nous pouvons juste découvrir la façade et le patio.
Nous passons devant la Basilica de la Merced, mais elle est fermée.
Puis devant la Casa Velasco, une maison coloniale qui abritait un tribunal, vide depuis près d’un an. 
La façade a été taguée par les manifestants quelques minutes auparavant.
Nous visitons la Posada del Corregidor, dernière demeure coloniale du centre historique, avec une belle façade. A l’intérieur, il y a une exposition d’artistes mais il n’y a pas grand-chose à voir de l’architecture du bâtiment.
La place toute proche est le théâtre d’affrontement avec la police au loin. Un camion de police tente de disperser les derniers casseurs avec un puissant jet d’eau. La place est ravagée, les feux et panneaux sont arrachés, les arrêts de bus en vrac, des bris de verre par terre. Nous ne nous attardons pas.
Plus loin, Sophie ressent une violente brulure à l’œil gauche, autour de nous quelques personnes toussent et se frottent les yeux. Certainement quelques effluves de gaz lacrymo. Sophie ne peut plus ouvrir les yeux pendant de longues minutes, je l’emmène vers le marché central pour y prendre notre repas de midi. Il est 15h.
Ce marché est un joli bâtiment en structure métallique. Réputé pour les fruits de mer et poissons, on y trouve de nombreux petits restos, des marisquerias.
Nous nous faisons alpaguer devant chaque resto. Nous nous installons chez Tio Lucho, où nous mangeons un plateau de fruits de mer à partager : avec une sorte de soupe de mariscal (camarones (crevettes), moules, piure, poulpe), des piures, des beignets, du ceviche, du chorito (moule), pince de jaiba (crabe), du poisson frit, des almeja (palourde), des ostra (huitre), des ostion (saint jacques), des macha (telline), des picoroco.
Après le repas, nous traversons le Rio Mapocho, pour découvrir un autre marché, mais sans intérêt.
Nous partons gravir le Cerro Sant Lucia, un petit parc perché sur une colline en plein centre, qui offre une vue sur la ville.
Juste avant 19h, nous repartons à la Plaza de Armas pour acheter un carton à la Poste avant de renvoyer un coli le lendemain.
Sous un kiosque de la place, de nombreuses personnes se sont installées pour une compétition d’échecs, entre papis principalement. Quelques employé de bureau en costume cravate se joignent à la compétition à leur sortie du boulot.
Nous rentrons à l’hôtel.
Vers 21h00, nous partons diner au Rincon de las Canallas, le repère des canailles, un ancien resto clandestin sous la dictature. Il y a des portraits de leaders politiques de gauche, de Pablo Neruda, et nombreux post-it agrafés sur les murs. Sophie commande des prietas, des boudins noir, sur un malentendu, puis l’échange contre des chuletas, et Sylvain un arollado, une paupiette, et une longaniza, une saucisse de porc épicé, le tout accompagné de riz, et patates bouillies. Bonne ambiance un peu bruyante, au son des guitares et chants en vivo.
De retour à l’hôtel, nous préparons notre colis : 8kg de guides, prospectus et souvenir. On nous avait annoncé une trentaine d’euros pour 4kg, sur internet, cela passe à 150 euros pour 8kg. Il doit y avoir une erreur, ou alors la poste s’est trompée quand nous avons pris nos renseignements. Pas bien le choix, il nous faut alléger nos bagages.