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Nous sommes réveillés à 8h30 par la musique des petits oiseaux et la douce voix du guide, Fernando. « Wake up, wake up, wake up, waky waky … Youkou youkou !! Que pacho ? Que pacho ? “

Le réveil est difficile après une nuit très agitée à traverser le golf de Penas. J’ai été réveillée vers les 2 heures du matin par les mouvements du bateau et les vagues frappant la coque. Ensuite impossible de se rendormir. Pour Sylvain, c’est vers 4h du matin qu’il s’est réveillé. Des vagues de travers énormes ont balloté le bateau dans tous les sens, et nous avons dû nous agripper pour ne pas tomber du lit. Des choses sont tombées par terre dans la nuit. Ce matin, nous découvrons que la table s’est renversée. Mais nous n’avons pas été malades. Puis tout s’est calmé soudainement vers 7h. A présent, la mer est redevenue calme. Nous avons quitté le Golf de Penas pour le canal Messier.

Nous allons prendre notre petit déjeuner copieux, avec céréales, gâteaux, pains frais, fruits, jus de fruit et chocolat chaud.

 Nous faisons un tour sur le toit pour admirer les fjords, puis visitons la passerelle de commandement. De là, nous avons la chance de voir quelques phoques nager près du bateau. Un pétrolier nous suit, nous avons fait route ensemble toute la nuit dans le Golf de Penas, pour s’entraider au cas où.

Le capitaine confirme nos craintes : nous ne verrons pas notre 1^er glacier, le Tempano, car il y a un passage très étroit, l’Angostura Inglesa, à passer de jour pour arriver à Puerto Eden. Nous sommes vraiment déçus.

A midi, nous allons prendre l’apéritif au bar. Un « pisco sour » pour Sylvain et un jus d’ananas pour Sophie, avec des petits toasts.

A 13h, c’est le déjeuner : cazuela de vacuno, empanadas de fruits de mer, et meringue aux framboises.

Pendant le repas, nous voyons par la fenêtre une épave, celle du Capitan Leonidas, un cargo qui transportait du sucre.

Après le repas, nous passons prendre à la cabine l’appareil photo de Sylvain. A peine 5 min plus tard, le commandant fait une annonce : 4 orques sont à proximité du bateau. Nous sortons en courant sur le pont extérieur. Il n’y a déjà plus rien, juste des ronds dans l’eau. Dégoutés !!!

Le soleil est revenu et nous passons un peu de temps à regarder les paysages qui nous entourent.

Nous arrivons à la Angostura Inglesa, le passage étroit du canal de Messier, une sorte de chicane avec 2 virages à angle droit. Ce n’est finalement pas si étroit que ça. Nous y croisons le ferry de Navimag qui remonte de Puerto Natales vers Puerto Montt.

Je pars faire une petite sieste pour récupérer de cette nuit mouvementée et Sylvain reste pour regarder l’arrivée à Puerto Eden.

A 16h30, nous débarquons à Puerto Eden, situé sur l’ile Isla Wellington. Il s’agit d’un petit village de pêcheurs, extrêmement isolé. Population : 80 habitants environ, dont les derniers descendants des Kaweskars. Pas d’autres village jusqu’à Puerto Natales.

Toutes les maisons colorées  sont construites le long d’un ponton en bois longeant la mer. Nous suivons ce chemin qui nous emmène à un point de vue panoramique sur les fiords et les maisons situées à l’autre bout du village.

Nous redescendons de l’autre côté de la colline pour nous promener dans cette autre partie du village. Nous passons devant une micro supérette appelée Vista al Mar, « vue sur la mer » (comme toutes les autres maisons du village !). Nous allons tout au bout du ponton, jusqu’à la dernière maison, d’où nous pouvons apercevoir le Skorpios III amarré.

A 18h30, c’est l’heure du retour au bateau. Nous prenons l’apéritif au bar, jus d’orange/banane pour Sophie et « pisco sour » pour Sylvain.

Nous appareillons en retard de Puerto Eden car le capitaine a convoqué une réunion avec les habitants du village dans la salle à manger. Il a certainement des projets avec un futur navire Skorpios IV pour désenclaver ce village qui n’accueille plus de touristes depuis que le ferry Navimag a abandonné le service de passagers début Septembre.

A 19h30, nous partons. Du ponton supérieur du bateau, nous avons une belle vue sur la ville avec les montagnes enneigées en arrière-plan.

Nous rentrons au chaud au bar car il commence à faire froid dehors. Nous regardons le film Total Recall avec Colin Farell qui passe en anglais sous-titré en espagnol, en mangeant des toasts apéritifs.

A 21h, c’est le diner. Nous mangeons du poulpe en entrée, suivi d’un rôti de dinde avec de la compote de pommes et des pommes duchesses, et des petits choux aux mûres pour finir.  

Notre guide Fernando fait ensuite une présentation sur les glaciers.

Puis c’est l’heure du Bingo. Sylvain gagne une casquette de capitaine brodée avec le logo Skorpios, lors d’un jeu où le gagnant est celui dont aucun des numéros de sa grille n’est sorti. Le principe : tout le monde est debout, sa grille à la main. Si le prochain numéro est sur sa grille, on est éliminé et il faut s’assoir. Sylvain restera le seul debout pour gagner sa magnifique casquette.

Nous terminons cette journée par  un petit tour à la passerelle pour assister à l’arrivée de nuit face au glacier Pie XI, le plus grand glacier de l’hémisphère sud (excepté l’Antarctique). Il fait nuit noir, la visibilité est mauvaise, nous naviguons aux instruments. L’ambiance dans la cabine est incroyable, baignée de silence et de concentration. Ils ont allumé un projecteur puissant pour voir ce qui se présente devant nous. Les premiers icebergs sont là, des débris du glacier plutôt petits. On s’imagine un peu dans le Titanic, lorsqu’ils ont aperçu l’iceberg à 500m devant, naviguant à plus de 22 nœuds (12 nœuds pour le Skorpios III en vitesse de croisière). La silhouette du glacier apparait enfin, un mur blanc que l’on distingue à la lueur du projecteur. Sa taille est difficile à imaginer dans la pénombre. Le capitaine ancre le bateau à 900m du glacier. Nous avons hâte d’être demain pour le découvrir à la lumière du jour.